A few weeks ago, Gordon Ramsay received championship levels of eye-rolling from people in the online food world for announcing he was to gift London an “authentic Asian eating house” called Lucky Cat. There were reasonable grounds for scepticism. For example, the head chef, Ben Orpwood, comes to this exercise from experience at the glistening, chrome and marble money pit that is Sexy Fish, and before that Zuma. Knocking out plates of raw spicy tuna to plutocrats with botoxed foreheads and Swarovski-clad iPhones is not the same as having spent your whole career deep in the food culture of Osaka. Obviously, I’ve never seen a passing bandwagon I couldn’t leap on; I eye-rolled with the best of them..